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02 March 2010

A trip to Ajantha Caves-India

We started from Bashavel in the wee hours of morning, after few hours, we are near a mountain. Located just 40 km Jalgaon city of Maharasta, India, lying in the middle of a steep horseshoe shaped rock; Ajantha comprises 30 temples like caves hewn into the heart of rock. The caves are surprisingly large and rich with Buddhist sculpture of the highest craftsmanship and more importantly, paintings of infinite charm. Though I knew that a chisel and hammer under the command of a skilled artiste can do wonders, I never thought it could be this magnitude.

It is a well maintained site, as is the case with any other site of either culture or religious value in India. Private vehicles are not allowed up to the caves, with a huge amenity centre built at the end of Ajantha Ghat, 4km away from the caves. From there, you have to take a pollution free bus to reach the caves through a reserved tropical forest. The hill range opposite the caves provides natural protection to the caves. A solitary place with a panoramic view surrounded by greenery a river flowing in the ravine. It makes it an ideal place for pious Buddhist monks to meditate. The river called Waghors, flows through seven small waterfalls called Saptkund. Before it enter the caves in form of a beautiful waterfall- a very pleasing site indeed during rainy season. Mother natures’ creativity at Ajantha, horseshoe shaped rock a bunch of waterfalls, a stream serpenting beneath strong impression that natural beauty is far ahead of man made wonders.

Believed to have been built around 2nd century BC, the caves remained unknown to the modern world until 1819, due to debris gathered within the caves, when it was accidentally discovered by John Smith, a British captain. Most of the painting in Ajantha is from the 2nd BC, while some of them are about the 5th century AD, and continued for next two centuries. Though there 30 caves, only 26 caves can be visited, as there is no proper access to rest. It had been a great monastery with the capacity to house thousands of monks. All the caves are numbered accordingly. Caves 9, 10, 19, and 16, are chaitya halls. Carving Stupas’ inside a rock cut cave needs a higher degrees of engineering skills.

In Ajantha, Hinayana and Mahayana have their separate caves. Since there was no idol worship in the Hinayana sect, no statues other than painted emblems of Buddha are seen in such caves, whereas, Mahayana caves are full of idols and paintings Sitting Buddhas’ statues at Mahayanic caves, have been carved with the leg touching the ground, so that worshipers have access to Buddha’s feet, because foot worship popular among the Mahayana followers.

Ajantha is famous for painting depicting scenes from Jathaka stories and Buddha’s life. Some caves are entirely painted. Some Hinayanic caves have been pillars fully painted with Jathaka stories. Rock cut staircase at Ajantha despite a mirror wall, look similar to the stone step at Sigiriya which in Sri Lanka, given the high elevation and the manner it goes along the main rock face up to the lion’s foot.